Friday, June 17, 2016

Seamwork's Hayden: Take Two

I caught the Hayden bug. In Seamwork’s April issue, I feel in love with the white embroidered linen top featured in the digital magazine. I decided I wanted to replicate the white shirt, it would be something I would drool over in a store. In preparation to sew up this shirt I made a wonderful toile out of some unknown polyester blend fabric, you can read more about here.

After making my wearable toile, I ended up making another two out of muslin to try and fix my fit issues. Up first, I removed the ½” I had added to the side panel and back, putting the pattern back to it’s original version minus the neckline, I found that it put the seam too far down my shoulder. Next, I tried carving out the armhole and sleeve to fix the tight arm issue…… nope it just gave me worse fit issues. So I taped the sleeve back to together and left the ⅛” I had carved out of the armhole. I also decided to remove ½” from the center front pattern piece at the waistline, to create more of a curve there. I kept the scooped out neckline. The results were better with the arm issue, but still not solved, but alas I had exhausted everything I knew how to do and decided to sew up the linen.

It must be because of the fabric but the underarm is not tight at all when my arms are in front of me with the linen, even though I did no changes and used the same sewing techniques, crazy right. Next, I added a hemstitch band to the bottom seam, as was shown in the magazine, but instead of it being so revealing, I folded the bottom band to the top of the hemstitch instead of the bottom, that way no skin can be seen. I also didn’t cut the band on the bias, but did my best to pattern match the stripes. I did a good job, except I forgot to match the side panels when cutting them out, oh well.

Next up on changes, I decided to interline the front panel piece only for modesty. I used a white polyester lining material from my stash. Though I really wish I had saved some of the silk cotton voile I had been using for the linings in my kids’ clothes. Adding the interlining was probably the most exciting thing for me. I get frustrated with shirts that are too sheer and I feel like I have to wear a tank top underneath, but then get too hot. I can’t tell you how excited I am about this. The shirt is still sheer (unlined) on the sides and back, which makes it super breathable and cool for the summer, yet modest enough for me to feel comfortable. This is why I got into sewing, being able to customize my clothes to my comfort level. I also wanted to get a better fit than I was getting with ready-to-wear, but I’m learning that fitting is a whole other immensely complicated beast.
In regards to changes, I wish I would have removed some length from shirt so it would fall a little higher, but other than that I am in love with it.
In summary here are my changes:
  • Scooped out the neckline 1 ½ inches
  • Removed ⅛” from front side panel, near the notch for the sleeve
  • Removed ½” from center front of waistline area
  • Added hemstitch tape between the top and bottom
  • Did not cut the bottom panel on the bias
  • In  the instructions when sewing the keyhole back, I did not understitch the bottom curve of the keyhole. I found the fabric didn’t turn well, and got better results if I understitched the straight edges only.
  • When doing the stay stitch around the neckline, it says sew it at a scant ¼”, it needs to be more of a tiny bit more ⅛”. The bias is sewn on at ¼”, so if it isn’t just right it will be visible.

Written by: Shawna

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