Friday, June 10, 2016

Seamwork's Hayden Blouse

As part of my New Year’s Resolution I wanted to use the patterns I have been receiving from Seamwork Magazine. The first pattern I sewed up came out fantastic, the Hayden. I absolutely loved the white version shown in Seamwork that I bought the same embroidered linen from Mood and some victorian bridging from Martha Pullen.

To start I don’t make myself a lot of clothes, mostly because I don’t need anything. Since my adult sewing skills isn’t on par with children’s sewing it is always a little intimidating since I usually have some fit issues and am not sure how to fix them.

My measurements are 34(B cup)-28-38. This puts me for bust at size 2 and waist and hip at size 6, so I just decided to cut a straight size 6. To start, I made a muslin first of this pattern, thank goodness, it wasn’t a very good fit. The neckline was extremely too high, like an awkward turtleneck to high. I also had trouble moving my arms forward because it was too tight around the armpit, but the upper back had lots of room. Lastly the chest area was a little snug too. Luckily Nicole made this shirt and shared her fit issues (which were very similar to mine) and how she fixed them. THANK-YOU NICOLE!! I replicated her fixes on the paper pattern along with scooping out the neckline more. I think in total I scooped out the neckline 1 ½ inches, though this is an easy fix that can be done during production, just don’t cut out the bias tape until all done or cut out extra.

Once I made the changes to the paper pattern I decided to make a wearable muslin using an unknown fabric type I had purchased on sale. I used french seam for everything but when I was inserting the sleeves. When I made the muslin I did one sleeve with a french and another regular and noticed that the tightness with my arms forward was worse with the french, not sure why though. The next thing different I did was to hand stitch the keyhole facing to the shirt. I found that when I was putting the muslin on I had a hard time getting the facing to the wrong side because that part of my back is hard to reach.  Lastly, I added some trim to the bottom seam.

Once I tried on my “wearable muslin”, I fell in love with it. It’s not a wearable muslin but an awesome shirt to add to my closet. It is so comfy and looks good. I do still have a fit issue with moving my arms forward, I am going to try carving out the armhole and sleeve and try out another muslin. I am also going to remove some of the width from around the waist, maybe an inch or so. Hopefully these changes will give me a better fit and I can finally cut into my white linen!! If you have any other advice please share, I am fumbling around in the dark here :)

Written by: Shawna








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